lavender soap recipe cold process

Set Up Your Area: Before soaping, it’s helpful to have your soaping area prepared before you start. Set aside to cool. Instructions: Using too little will result in a soft, squishy bar that contains too much oil. I use this block of time to give the top of my soap some texture. lavender infused water 1 oz. Every oil brings its own properties to a bar of soap, and finding the perfect soap recipe … Use a spoon to smooth the texture and make peaks. Click here for cold process soap making recipe directions. That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. I have Lavender Fragrance Oil though. Turn the heating pad on medium/high, and place the soap on top. Check out this blog post to learn more about LabColors and gel phase. Lovely scent just way too strong. , Perfect Pink Stick Blender: https://www.brambleberry.com/Perfect-Pink-Stick-Blender-P5245.aspx. For this project, the small Periwinkle High pH LabColor needs to be diluted in 4 oz. Not sure that I’m wild about the mounded top of this soap…I may play with other techniques instead on future batches. In another container, measure your liquid oils. Melt and Pour Homemade Soap Recipes. Allow the soap to cure for at least 4 to 6 weeks. LabColors are highly concentrated liquid dyes. of lye and 11 oz. It does look a bit different, but works the same as the previous one. Alternate between using the stick blender to stir the mixture, and pulsing the stick blender. Well, that water is still in the loaf of soap and needs to evaporate. , Read more about preservatives here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/lotion/talk-it-out-tuesday-preservatives/, […] Layered Lavender Soap recipe and photo by Soap Queen. In order to be used in water based projects, they first must be diluted in distilled water. Pour the entire container of the darkest soap into the mold, and tap it down on the counter to eliminate air bubbles. Then, cover the soap. I would like to make this soap, but in blue. I recently ordered the back to basics kit. . Now I’m constantly brainstorming for new ideas and new recipes. Let me know and we’ll get it figured out. What colors did you use for your batch? Thanks , You can resize batches easily using our Lye Calculator! Then, with a knife, slice the bars. Did you make any substitutions to the recipe, including fragrance oil? Your email address will not be published. of lye by sprinkling it into a heat-resistant plastic or glass container. You can use our Fragrance Calculator to find out how much to add to this recipe: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx. Allow the lye water and oils to reach 110° F or below. 10.2 oz. It works well for darker shades of purple but for lighter shades it just seems gray, I use oxide if I want a light shade. Click here to read more about gel phase, and see how gel phase affects LabColors. SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! You will notice the LabColor will turn the soap a shade of blue/green, and soon morph into a gray color. Don’t worry! Use a spoon to spread the mixture evenly throughout the mold, and to create texture. This soap needs to go through gel phase in order to make the colors really pop! This is where a soap calculator comes in handy. If you like the effect, check out the Striped Berry Champagne Cold Process tutorial! This recipe makes about 2 pounds of soap which will produce about 6-7 bars of soap. Whisk in the lavender 40/42 essential oil. , See how to prepare those colorants in this video: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/learn-prepare-colorants-cold-process-soap-making/, This post has more tips on coloring soap as well: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/talk-it-out-tuesday-colorants/, We have a gorgeous Ultramarine Violet pigment that would look great in this recipe: https://www.brambleberry.com/Ultramarine-Violet-Oxide-Pigment-P4047.aspx, We also have some new colorants that work well in cold process soap! 11.2 oz. Thanks!! of distilled water in a separate container. That means goggles, gloves and long sleeves. The dropper came with my order, but I couldn’t read the markings on it. You want the soap be the texture of the soap to be a thick pudding. At this point, I like to begin by weighing my water and fragrance. It adds a great creaminess to the soap. This recipe produces a nice, creamy lather with plenty of bubbles, thanks to the Coconut oil. What makes a good baby soap recipe? Sodium Hydroxide Lye This is the soap-making method I would recommend to beginners or those looking for a simple project. Don’t forget to add a preservative! Then, mix and add 1 dispersed teaspoon at a time. sodium lactate. In order to make the layers in this project, the soap needs to be a medium to thick trace. Recap the lye and store in a cool, dry environment. I would definitely recommend getting a stick blender for soaping. Doing this will prevent any caustic water from splashing out. Always soap in a well-ventilated area. I double checked the 3 oz. Cold process has so many different techniques to learn and we look forward to sharing these with you in the coming months. I’ll include links below. SIX: Pour in the 3 oz. Also, oxides are another great option for a lovely purple color. It gives me a sense of self-sufficiency and self worth. You can also leave the fragrance uncolored and unscented if you’d like a more natural bar. This is why it is detrimental to wear personal protective equipment (often referred to as PPE) such as long pants, long sleeves, gloves and protective eyewear. Now, let’s get soaping! I chose the oils in this recipe because they are affordable and have some wonderful skin-loving properties. We made several different batches of soap: This 2-lb batch of Rosemary/Lavender soap was made using mint-infused rainwater, rosemary essential oil and half pulverized dried rosemary leaves and half pulverized dried lavender blooms. Other than that it was super easy to make! March 12, 2009. THIRTEEN: Finally, spoon the lightest color of soap into the mold. Remember, when we are working with soap, we are measuring in weight, not volume or fluid ounces – even with a recipe, failure to accurately measure ingredients will negatively effect your end result. Carefully pour the lye water down the shaft of the stick blender. Cutting the soap while it’s still cold is a good idea. It is best to weigh each oil individually and then combine, as this will avoid any over-pouring. I hope I added the colorant right. You can tend to your hygiene with the peace of mind because you know exactly what is in that bar of soap. In addition, this project uses LabColors to give the layers a purple ombre effect. You can even formulate recipes for laundry soap or shampoo bars with this method. Optiphen: https://www.brambleberry.com/Optiphen-P3682.aspx, Sodium hydroxide lye: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sodium-Hydroxide-Lye-P3037.aspx, Learn more about diluting your LabColors here: http://www.soapqueen.com/bath-and-body-tutorials/tips-and-tricks/diluting-bramble-berry-labcolors/, Back to Basics Soapmaking Kit: https://www.brambleberry.com/Back-To-Basics-Soapmaking-Kit-P6301.aspx. I always think of cold process soap as being “old fashioned” and believe it or not, there is actually nothing “cold” about the process. You definitely don’t want to pour undiluted fragrance oils down the drain – the same goes for essential oils, cooking oil, etc. Goat Milk, Oatmeal, Honey and Lavender Soap Recipe. of distilled water in separate containers and set aside. distilled water. You will need a digital kitchen scale to weigh your ingredients properly. Feel free to share, tweet and pin to your hearts content. Layered Lavender Cold Process Recipe (superfat 5%) Any skin-safe fragrance will work. of the Quick Mix, 4.7 oz. Use a whisk to mix in the LabColor. This Layered Lavender Cold Process Soap works with thick trace to ensure the layers stay separate. I am going to try the lighter scent with my next attempt. Thanks! you might wish to change the word “detrimental” to another. Add the diluted Periwinkle High pH LabColor to each container in the amounts listed below. Perfect for test batches.) If you’re making a larger batch, you may need to mix 2 teaspoons of the colorant into 2 tablespoons of oil, or 3 teaspoons into 3 tablespoons. Tagged With: back to basics, back to basics series, Cold Process, gel phase, Intermediate, LabColors, lavender & Cedar Fragrance Oil, periwinkle labcolor, thick trace. ), Activated Charcoal Skin Benefits & Tips for Use, How to Substitute Oil in Cold Process Recipes, Single Oil Cold Process Soap Lather Tests, Water Discounting Cold Process Soap: How & Why, Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Cold Process, Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Common Soapmaking Oils, Free Beginner’s Guide to Soapmaking: Melt and Pour, Sunday Night Spotlight: Melt and Pour Bases, How to Use Instagram for Business + Tips on Building Your Community, How to Calculate the Price of Your Products, Understanding FDA Cosmetic vs. Drug Claims, 5 Tips to Take Soaping from Hobby to Business, 20,000 Bars of Soap in 8 Weeks – Chatting with Revive Bath & Body, Interview with Lauren of Single Barrel Soaps, How Leaning on Books Improves Product Photography, Chatting with Zahida of Handmade in Florida, Pumpkin Spice Latte Sugar Scrub on Soap Queen TV, How to Make Whipped Body Butter on Soap Queen TV, Buttermilk Bastille Baby Bar on Soap Queen TV, Sparkling Champagne Soap Cupcakes on Soap Queen TV, Clover & Aloe Spin Swirl Cold Process on Soap Queen TV, Container A (dark purple): 7 mL diluted Periwinkle LabColor, Container B: (medium purple): 5 mL Periwinkle diluted LabColor, Container C (light purple) 3 mL diluted Periwinkle LabColor, Diluted Periwinkle High pH LabColor (small). I finally found a small spray bottle and filled it with my 70% alcohol; I sprayed the tops after the fact, after I could see soda ash on the soap…and it gave the soap a really shiny surface and took care of the ash (I think!). While lye is used to make soap, once a complete chemical reaction has occurred – known as saponification – there is no remaining lye in the bar of soap. Slowly incorporate lye into the water by again gently sprinkling it in while slowly stirring the water. So, exactly what is trace? We like to use droppers! This type of soapmaking requires a lot of moving around, pouring of containers and use of different tools, so you don’t want any extra clutter around. Once the oils are completely melted or have reached 130 degrees, remove from heat and set aside to cool. Use a spoon to gently place the medium purple (gray) color onto the bottom. FOUR: Once bubbles no longer rise to the surface of the oils, gently pour the cooled lye water down the shaft of the stick blender and into the oils. The mixture will still be pourable and this is a good time to get it into the, Thick trace – a custard-like consistency. Before going any further, please refer back to our post on lye safety. That will go away as it cures for 4-6 weeks though. If you’d like a harder bar of soap that releases faster from the mold, you can add sodium lactate to the cooled lye water. This soap is still a very thin trace. For this recipe, add about 2 tsp. LabColors become more vibrant when the soap goes through gel phase. The Back to Basics Soapmaking Kit includes all the soaping ingredients you need to create all four recipes, including the 10″ Silicone Mold. You can find those at BrambleBerry.com. Check out the Soapy Session Preparation and Setup Guide for tips. Make sure you follow their instructions as each one works a little differently. The name “Castile” refers to the Castile region of Spain, which is where this type of soap is thought to have originated. We love to help. SAFETY FIRST: Suit up for safe handling practices! This is not true. You will immediately see the lye and oils begin to come together, and begin to create a creamy yellow color. Tutorials on soapmaking, bath fizzies, lotions and more, July 28, 2015 Filed Under: Bath & Body Tutorials, Cold Process Soap. Once the soap fully saponifies and goes through gel phase, the grey will transform into purple. Use a spoon to spread the soap throughout the mold and create subtle texture within the layer. Learn more about working with clays here: https://www.soapqueen.com/bramble-berry-news/sunday-night-spotlight-brazilian-clay/, Pigments work best mixed at a rate of 1 teaspoon color to 1 tablespoon lightweight oil, like sweet almond oil. There is no right or wrong way to create a textured top, just have fun with it! lavender essential oil 1/4 tsp. This is called, “burping the stick blender.”. That kit is a lot of fun to make. NINE: Check the trace of your soap. Brand new to soap making. The alternative method, hot process soap, follows the same guidelines except the recipe continues to fully cook (cure) the soap in a heated crock pot. You can use a soap cutter or a kitchen knife. There is extra olive oil because some of it will evaporate with the heat. The MSDS sheet talks about not allowing it to get into drainage ditches, water supplies, lakes, ponds, streams, etc…since no actual ingredients are listed, I’m not sure about the wisdom of using soap (which is going to go into the waste treatment plant, which eventually ends up in lakes, streams, and the ocean) that contains these fragrance oils? For this recipe, add about 2 tsp. 10.2 oz. If you have never diluted Lab Colors before, check out this blog post. Use 1 teaspoon of sodium lactate per pound of oils in the recipe. Finally, sprinkle the soap with the lavender flowers. This recipe yields approximately 10 x 1″ bars of soap. I added a little more and it didn’t get as thick as it should have. Use a spatula to remove any residual soap in the container – we don’t want any waste! Was the kit suppose to come with a preservative as well because I read on your website on how to dilute lab colours that I need it. By the time the soap is in the mold, it will have thickened up a bit more. Instead, you can use pigments! You can also checkout the digital downloads for that instant gratification factor. If you soap at too high of a temperature, your soap will be prone to overheating which can cause the soap to crack down the middle and expand out of the mold. We love using a stick blender because it gets the soap emulsified in just a couple of minutes. You can use our Fragrance Calculator to find out the light recommendations for our recipes: https://www.brambleberry.com/Pages/Fragrance-Calculator.aspx, Scent is definitely personal preference, so you can add a light scent to any of our recipes! It is important to allow the soap to set in the mold for at least three days. Take care not to pour the lye from too high above – you don’t want to get it anywhere except the container. Sorry about any confusion. Now, we are ready to work with color, thick trace and gel phase! coconut oil 1.5 oz. Have you worked with layers and LabColors to create an ombre effect? In an airy place, outdoors is best, pour … of water? I have found that weighing everything in the beginning (except the lye, which you definitely do not want sitting out in an open container) helps me keep a good pace and doesn’t distract me by having to interrupt my flow to measure more ingredients. Mishandling of lye leads to injuries such as chemical burns and we do not want that! If you prefer, you can do a light recommendation, which is 1.5 ounces. Castile soap is a cold process soap made with 100% olive oil. distilled water. Should I use the titanium dioxide pigment first, then add purple? Plus I didn’t have the alcohol. Just curious ? Then, mix well and add 1 dispersed teaspoon at a time. If you are an experienced soapmaker, what piece of advice would you offer to a beginner? and also if i have clay and pigments and colorants? Then, add the color 1 dispersed teaspoon at a time until you get a color you like. Measure 12.16 oz. Unless stated otherwise, all images are original material and are copyrighted. ONE: Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. ← Hobby to Business Series: Establishing Your Brand, The first stage is emulsification – this is when all evidence of, The second stage is thin trace – the mixture is opaque and when you lift your mixing tool out and let a drip fall back in, it will rest on top before sinking back in. So, what exactly is it and why is it known as “cold process” soap? They add great color in soap. Unless you use all the color as soon as it’s diluted, the rest will be stored for later use. For this soap I didn’t strain the milk, but for food purposes strain the oat milk through a clean shirt and discard the pulp; Can I replace the entire water amount with oat milk? When you are finished texturizing, give the soap a few sprays of rubbing alcohol. This tutorial is the third in the Back to Basics Cold Process Series. Pour in the 3 oz. Below, you can see that when the stick blender is pulled out of the mixture, the drips or trailings of soap do not suspend on the top. I am not able to find Lavender & Cedar Fragrance Oil in India. of water. Also, milk soaps do have an odd ammonia smell at first. If you’ve never made Cold Process soap before, stop here! 9.6 oz. Could this be a mistake on my part? Get the recipe for Orange Vanilla Cinnamon Soap in my post on cold-process soap making. sodium lactate. Crisp Cotton is a fresh scent with notes of orange, violet, and thyme: https://www.brambleberry.com/Crisp-Cotton-Fragrance-Oil-P6192.aspx, Neroli and Shea is another option, it has notes of citrus and amber for an overall clean scent: https://www.brambleberry.com/Neroli-Shea-Blossom-Fragrance-Oil-P5864.aspx. Remember how we mixed lye into over 12 oz. But it does work! I can be found on Facebook at Yellow Cottage SoaperyThanks for watching!Royalty Free Music by Kevin Macleod Depending on your climate, you may need to help the soap heat up with a heating pad. The MSDS is referring to undiluted fragrance oils going down the drain. To make sure layers don’t blend together, the bottom layers of soap need to be thicker than the top layers. If you'd like to use an image, please be a friend and credit the photo and link back to Soap Queen. We hope that you enjoy our Lavender Cold Process Soap Recipe! Place your stick blender into the oils. 5: To the large container, add all of the dispersed activated charcoal and whisk in. COLOR PREP: LabColors are super concentrated liquid dyes. In order to use them in cold process soap and other projects, they first need to be diluted. In order to make the layers in this project, the soap needs to be a medium to thick trace. This is exactly what happens during the curing process. Do not add the water to lye. Once the lye water is completely poured, gently pulse the blender a few times until you begin to see trace. I prefer to measure my solid oils/butters separately as I find it helps with accuracy and minimizing mess. Another 2-lb batch of soap we made: Rosemary-Scented Scrubbing Soap. Having it in a more rigid state will allow for easier slicing. Since this recipe is composed of liquid and soft oils, it takes a little while longer to solidify. Set aside to cool. My final concern/comment: I used the fragrance oil suggested, but I’m really a purist and am not sure about the health consequences of that choice. thx. Store the soap in a safe place that is out of reach of children and pets. To avoid mashing the textured top, we created a cover out of cardboard, shaped like a tent. While soaping, you don’t want to be running around looking for a spatula or whisk! You will feel resistance when trying to stir. I checked brambleberry fragrance calculator of course after I made it and it seems it should have only been 1 oz. I hope I didn’t add too much colorant. Doing so can cause splatter, lye caking at the bottom of your container and overheating. To use them, we recommend mixing at a rate of 1 teaspoon of color to 1 tablespoon of a lightweight oil, like sweet almond oil. They have mL markings on the side that make it easy to measure as you go. However, it turns into a lovely dark purple. With that said, measure 1 oz. Different Variations Of Soap Recipe. This series of tutorials includes four cold process recipes that are perfect for beginning soapers. I highly recommend checking out our FREE four part SoapQueen.tv series on Cold Process Soapmaking, especially the episode on lye safety. You may want to substitute the color in the recipe. The first time I saw it I was skeptical it would turn. If your soap is still fairly liquid, stick blend each container for several seconds to thicken. Allow to remain under the cardboard and blanket for 24 hours. The color used in the recipe will be turned into soap, which has a pH level that doesn’t allow mold to grow. Safety first! To learn more about trace, check out the All About the Trace blog post. This cold process soap recipe is the best ever. Ensuring a complete chemical reaction when mixing oils and lye will secure you a successful batch of cold process soap. This was only me second ever batch of soap, so I think I did really well. I am wondering if 3 oz is way too much for this recipe. someone else posted this suggestion to your Facebook post, Your email address will not be published. I love this company! I have a question about the Labcolors…how do you measure the colorant in ml? , Queen’s Purple Mica: https://www.brambleberry.com/Queens-Purple-Mica-P6345.aspx, Orchid Mica: https://www.brambleberry.com/Orchid-Mica-P6344.aspx, Lavender Mica: https://www.brambleberry.com/Lavender-Mica-P6378.aspx, Sweet almond oil: https://www.brambleberry.com/Sweet-Almond-Oil-P3205.aspx. Can you please shed some light on how saponification may or may not change the chemical structure of oils, whether fragrance or essential oils, to make them safer (or in the case of essential oils, to nullify the beneficial qualities)? Olive Oil (30%) Back to Basics: Layered Lavender Cold Process ... - Soap Queen Always soap in a well-ventilated area. Definitely let us know how it goes. Slowly and carefully add the lye to the water and gently stir until the lye has fully dissolved and the liquid is clear. If you choose to add all of your oils to one container, do not forget to tare your scale in between ingredients. ELEVEN: Use a spoon to gently place the medium purple (gray) color onto the bottom. For the 10″ Silicone Loaf Mold, you’ll need 33 oz. There are 4 stages to watch for: For this recipe, I will be mixing in the Lavender essential oil at thin trace. Coconut Oil – 136 grams (30%) Castor Oil – 46 grams (10%) 4.8 oz. Everyone says theirs is a gray color. But to help mix in the colorant and fragrance easier, stop once you have reached this point. Continue to gently stir until all the lye has dissolved. Place the tented cardboard on top of the mold, and cover with a blanket to insulate. I’ve got a lifetime supply of soapy gifts for my family and friends! This Layered Lavender Cold Process Soap used LabColors to give a beautiful ombre effect! Overuse of lye will produce a bar of soap that zaps and is irritating to the skin. Do you use a syringe? The excess moisture is able to leave the bar when exposed to air, which results in a harder, longer-lasting bar of soap. Remember that ingredients (except for additives when indicated in volume) need to be weighted and not measured.Fragrance and essential oils should also be weighed. I recommend using the Super variety of Lavender buds which are known for their vibrant purple color. If you want to get fancy, you can even sprinkle some lavender buds on top of the soap when finished. In order to use them in cold process soap and other projects, they first need to be diluted. Combine the coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil and canola oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). If you are familiar with soap making, you know that different oils have different properties that they bring a bar of soap… Rice Bran Oil14 oz. After about 20-30 minutes, turn off the heating pad, but leave the blanket and cardboard on top. The gray color is a bit surprising for sure! After the 100th customer asked for it (ha!) TWO: Combine the coconut oil, olive oil, palm oil and canola oils (remember to fully melt then mix your entire container of palm oil before portioning). After 24 hours, remove the soap from the mold. container and gently measure 4.79 oz. […], […] Back to Basics: Layered Lavender Cold Process Tutorial Formulating from Your Cupboard – Day 2 Paprika Lime Cold Process Soap Citrus Peppermint Cold Process Soap Crisp Cotton Swirl Cold Process Mantra Swirl Silicone Column Oatmeal Milk and Honey 100% Coconut Oil Soap with Aloe Vera and a Mantra Swirl Spooky Eyeball Cold Process Soap Tutorial Sudsy Shampoo Bars […], © 2021 Soap Queen • Site Design by Emily White Designs, Back to Basics: Layered Lavender Cold Process Tutorial. of Lavender essential oil and 12.16 oz. If left in unfit conditions, it will attract moisture from humidity in the air and begin to cake and clump. It is EXTREMELY important you understand how to handle sodium hydroxide with caution. I ended up using 3 droppers, 2 droppers, and 1 dropper of the Periwinkle (diluted) for the 3 layers. lye 2.5 oz. You can find those at a department store like Target, at a second-hand store like Goodwill, online and on BrambleBerry.com. More of a gray with a purple hint. Set aside. I noticed mine was more of a pink color! My colors didn’t do well. can i use electric hand mixture instead of stick blender? Natures Garden is not responsible for the performance of any of the recipes provided on our website. If you aren’t already wearing your personal protective equipment, now is the time to suit up. Split off about 300 mL of soap into a separate container. There will always be a need for soap! I decided to break down and make Give the loaf mold a gentle tap on the counter to eliminate any air pockets. Lavender 40/42 Essential Oil, Heat Safe ContainersCutting Board90% Rubbing AlcoholDigital ScaleThermometerStick/Immersion BlenderGlovesEye ProtectionLong sleevesA child and pet-free work space.

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